Nora
by Nora
17 April 14:00

Disaster Point: An Ominous Caving Experience

I remember it like it was yesterday. We were in the Rocky Mountains near Jasper Canada – myself, and two climbing mates: Kelly and Luc. We hiked. We climbed. And we caved.

The year prior, I had my first caving experience in the same place. We aimed high with Disaster Point: a very technical cave involving multiple rappels (abseils) into a glorified hole in the ground. Without rope, you can’t even get close to the entrance, and you would certainly have a “disaster” on your hands if you were in the cave and lost your rope. (Okay, so maybe it was not the best cave to have chosen as a first for me, but there you have it).

So as you might expect, as a newbie caver, I absolutely froze when I suddenly realized I was over 30 metres underground, I was cold, and I was looking up at an icy hole as my route back to the outside world. Before bottoming the cave, we got the heck out.

Fast forward one year later: once again at Disaster Point’s doorstep. As a climbing and caving team, we had put a lot of time into training and generally frolicking in Canada’s Rocky Mountains. And I had a bone to pick with Disaster Point: it was going to be mine this time. No turning back.

The first rappel (abseil) was straight down a chute approx 30 metres. We slid down next to a huge icicle , and at its narrowest the chute was only about 1-2 metres in diameter. From there we swung ourselves onto a balcony where we could (ahem) admire the scenery, and scope out the next rappel.

Straight down again, the second rappel was much shorter, and landed us on another small balcony. We stayed on rope though, and continued down through three very small squeezes (with names like “birth canal”, very little is left to the imagination), and eventually sumped out (a caving term for hit the bottom as far as we could go, but not necessarily as far as the cave goes – due to water, mud, or rocks) over 60 metres from the very top.

Having made it to the bottom though, was not the end. Now we had to get out! (Similarly in mountaineering, reaching the peak isn’t necessarily the time to celebrate – the way down is often more dangerous than the way up).

After waiting for what seemed like an inordinate amount of time for Luc to reach the top of the first rope so the next person could ascend, Kelly & I were getting nervous. We had lost almost all audial contact with Luc, save for hearing the occasional muffled sign of frustration. He wasn’t responding to any of our calls, which indicated to us that he likely couldn’t hear us. Having only the bottom of the rope to hang on to (our lifeline in this situation), all we could do was wait, and not think about the cold, our fading headlamps, or the worst case scenarios that kept creeping into my mind.

Finally and thankfully, we heard the faint and delicious words “Off Rope” coming from above, signifying that Luc had made it to his destination and the next person could start ascending. That was my cue.

Ascending at the best of times is no easy task. Armed with any number of different systems, you are relegated to hauling yourself up the rope, sometimes in thin air, and sometimes using the features of the rock around you to help (or hinder) the process.

After making it back up through the tight squeezes, I was able to communicate with Luc but was losing contact with Kelly who was still waiting at the bottom. I figured I was on easy street, and wondered what took Luc so long to ascend. Of course, I was about to find out.

Topping out is almost always tricky business when climbing (either underground or otherwise). Sometimes you have to haul yourself over tricky obstacles, and oftentimes the anchoring system isn’t the most user-friendly for getting over the edge with ascending devices. In this particular situation, there was absolutely no sack in the rope, since it twisted down and around all those tight squeezes.

To spell out the situation, I found myself at the top of the ascent, but unable to actually get over the ledge since the rope was stuck. Luc fought the same battle, and eventually won through brute strength. Brute strength isn’t one of my more well-known traits, so it was not an option for me.

Of course I’m here to tell the story, so you can tell we survived the episode. It involved a lot of teamwork, keeping a calm head in an upsetting situation, and working through the problem. More specifically, we systematically created backups to attach me to fixed objects, then I disconnected from the rope I was hanging on, and climbed over the ledge.

The remainder of the ascent was relatively uneventful, and the moment of sheer joy and love of life in reaching the top is something I’ve never experienced before. It was a sense of accomplishment and a rush that coursed through my body and lasted for hours.

So having survived a cave as ominous sounding as Disaster Point, we’re ready for the big time! Consider us an astute caving team, ready for hire. Or maybe just a bunch of mountaineering nuts in the Rockies of Canada. Either way.

Photo “Rocky Mountain Wapiti III” by Lost in the Shadows on Flickr

Nora
by Nora
6 April 14:00

Mountaineering 101: Don’t Look Down

When you are traversing a spiny ridge over 10,000 feet in the air, with an incredibly steep rocky scree slope on one side and cliffs overlooking thin air on the other side, and the wind is blowing fiercely, there is but one golden rule to live by: Don’t Look Down! At least, that became the mantra on our recent ascent of Mount Richardson, near Lake Louise.

When mountaineering, “Down Look Down” seems like a bit of a strange idiom; you would think that soaking in the scenery and looking up, down, and all around would be the name of the game. And of course – it is. However in my experience, there are times for looking around, and times for concentrating on the task at hand.

I have begun to boil mountaineering down to the process of identifying a series of problems to solve and overcome in order to reach the summit (and descend too – let’s not forget about that!) safely. You take it step by step, ledge by ledge. You get over the hump that is in front of you (whether it be a cliff face, snow slope, or simply a big tiring hill), and when you reach the end of that small adventure, you rest, soak in the scenery and bask in your recent achievement, then tackle the next obstacle between you and your goal. (Kinda like life, huh)? It’s a great way of training the mind to focus on the task at hand, and not worry about some of the “small stuff” that can occupy valuable space in our minds so often.

The mountains have a wonderful habit of being quite deceiving on the eye. Climbing actually starts with standing at the bottom and surveying the mountain. You think you see a clear path, and man – it even looks easy. You don’t actually SAY it’s easy out loud though, because the “mountain gods” might hear you and decide to show you otherwise.

imgp0543jpgSo instead, you humbly survey your path, and take a peek at alternate routes as much as possible. Then, you start your ascent, or even take more time and start with some initial reconnaissance, as we did on this trip.

Our original plan was to summit Mount Richardson, then traverse down and across a giant bowl of rocks and snow underneath two other peaks, and rise up again to summit Ptarmigan Mountain on the other side of this small range of four peaks. However what appeared to be a clear-cut and easy traverse from the ground became a different story once we got a little closer on our scouting mission.

What seemed from a distance like gentle snow slopes sometimes morphed into almost vertical drops once we got close. And what we were sure was an easy path across a ledge turned out to have a huge gulley dropping out hundreds of feet in the middle.

It was a good thing that we took an extra day to figure out these finer details, because it could have meant some serious delays (and possible problems) on our summit day.

So after an 8 mile hike into our campground to set up, and a further 6 hours of scouting (even climbing halfway up the mountain) to determine the best routes, we were ready to turn in for a well-deserved night’s sleep.

The next morning had our group of six up early and ready for anything. We ate, dressed, and packed up all the necessities we would need for our long day of climbing: at least 2 litres of water each, lunch, first aid kits, trekking poles, ice axes, helmets, and lots of layers for the cool thin air.

After hiking from our campsite to Hidden Lake (a beautiful and still partially frozen glacial lake at the bottom of the 4 mountains) we started moving up to the first saddleback, where we practiced some self-arrest techniques using our ice axes. The premise of the refresher was to ensure proper use of our ice axes, such that should anybody lose their footing on a snow slope we would know how to stop ourselves effectively – a pretty handy technique if you ask me. Some of the cliffs already looming below didn’t look too nice. Ice axes are also quite useful for balance and extra security when moving through both snow and rocky landscapes.

At this time of year (July), there should have been very little or no snow on these mountains at all, however the winter past saw epic amounts of snowfall in the Rockies, and consequently the standard path up Mount Richardson was impossible to traverse. Such is part of adventuring in the mountains – you don’t ever know what you’re going to see and you need to be prepared for anything and everything.

imgp0551jpgThe next step to our ascent was the long undulating ridge which trended gradually upwards towards the peak of Mount Richardson. Because we were off the beaten path due to the snow, we had to take each obstacle as it arose, treading where people don’t generally go on this mountain. Sometimes the obstacle was getting around a large boulder by scrambling and climbing over it or carefully around it (without looking down at the thin air beneath you of course). Sometimes the ridge rocks were too much to get over, and had to be given a wider berth by moving down a snow slope and around to the next ledge. And on a few welcome occasions, all we had to do was meander along the wide path at the top of the ridge, taking in a luscious untouched green alpine meadow on one side, and Hidden Lake with its ever-changing blues and greens on the other side.

Much of the mountaineering game is a mental one. Some of the obstacles you face would be complete non-issues if you knew there were few if any consequences. Think of it this way: if you had to walk across a narrow beam that was 2 feet off the ground, you wouldn’t give it a second thought; you could practically run across it. But put that same beam up much higher (when the consequence of losing your balance would be considerably more dire), and you might freeze. At the very least you wouldn’t brazenly run across.

In mountaineering, you need to see what is in front of you, and know for yourself that you can get across that proverbial beam, whether it is two feet or two thousand feet off the ground. It requires the mental confidence and focus on the task at hand in order to get past that moment, hence the adage: Don’t Look Down.

Of course, we safely arrived at the glorious peak of Mount Richardson (seven hours after leaving camp that morning), and soaked in the 360 degree view of such splendours as Lake Louise, Mount Assiniboine (the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies), Mount Hector (the top of which looks like Snoopy lying on top of his dog house), and clouds racing mere metres above our heads on this windy oasis.

Descending was much easier and quicker than ascending, and was loads of fun. Instead of carefully carving out snow steps up and across widely exposed areas of the mountain (a challenging hurtle which I mustered the courage to lead myself), we simply plopped down on our butts and slid down, of course arresting ourselves with our trusty ice axes as we neared the bottom of each snow patch. Instead of trudging up the slippery scree on which every three steps up inevitably entailed falling one step back, we would “scree ski” or slide in a controlled manner on our feet with every step we took.

And we were certainly thankful that the descent wasn’t as long and arduous as the ascent; some members of our team were very dehydrated, and Kelly even managed to injure his knee about two thirds of the way down and back to camp. It’s easy to happen: for him it was a matter of one foot falling through a hole in the snow, while the other foot was still planted behind him, twisting his knee.

imgp0530jpgThank goodness it didn’t happen further up the mountain, and thank goodness for the supportive team of climbers around us. Kelly managed to get back to camp on his own steam (amazingly), where he sat back and iced it while I took care of the dinner preparation and cleanup. On our hike out to the car the following day, we were so lucky to have generous team members help Kelly carry out his belongings so he didn’t have to worry about any extra weight, and he painfully managed to hike all the way out at a decent pace I might add.

At the beginning of this weekend, we didn’t know any of our team members at all. But after three days of hiking together, cooking and eating together, climbing, problem solving, and overcoming challenges together, we grew, learned about each other and ourselves, and became quite close in a sense. We supported each other through our individual trials and learning experiences. We had lots of time to find out each other’s personal reasons for being in the mountains, and sometimes even discovered our own internal mountains to be climbed.

And as we discovered and celebrated each other’s differences and challenged ourselves along the way, we always kept our heads high and enjoyed the views as much as possible. But when we had to focus on the task at hand, all of us held to one surefire rule: Don’t Look Down.